natural beauty

Showing posts with label natural beauty. Show all posts. The posts are listed in chronological order. Click the post title to read more.

Tuesday, February 16, 2016 in , , , ,

Confessions From the Makeup Counter - how dirty are most makeup testers?


How dirty and contaminated with bacteria are most makeup testers in stores?

Imagine one day you're wandering the aisles of your local natural health food store.  You've got your coconut water, Brussels sprouts, trail mix and a chocolate bar flavored with 3 different exotic fruits and sea salt .  In your journey of sight, sound, and snacks you happen to meander into the bodycare section and notice that, hooray, your local store has begun stocking makeup!  And as is the way with impulse purchases you remember that the tube of your favorite lip color in your purse is indeed getting low.  Your hand starts to move toward the line of testers which are conveniently left open for you to try.  You're thinking maybe you'll give that more intense red a try this time.... and PAUSE.

How much bacteria is present on makeup testers at retail stores? Which kinds of makeup are most contaminated? How dirty are makeup testers?

This scene could be played out with in your local beauty superstore (sans Brussels sprouts) or perhaps your cosmetic stomping ground is at the department store.  No matter which venue you shop the reality is that the testers in all these locations have been touched by dozens or potentially even hundreds of people.  Human hands are major sources of contamination and the skin of all the strangers that came before you may have been a harbor for microbes that could be problematic for your health.  Staph bacteria and even E. Coli could be tagging along for the ride.  These are pathogens that can create a serious skin or eye infection depending on each person's unique vulnerabilities, so it's worth it to consider how well the location you're at is sanitizing their testers, if they sanitize at all.  Many simply do nothing and in doing so they let the germy good times roll.  

We talk a lot about toxin buildup on this blog, but the makeup tester type of contamination is a whole other can of worms.  Most makeup has some level of preservatives in it, especially if it has any moisture content at all, but any preservative system (even the synthetic ones) can get overwhelmed in the right situation.  Having a preservative doesn't mean the product can kill anything.  It's made to hold up to normal, everyday use.  In most cases that would mean one person possibly touching it once a day, not the onslaught of dozens of users that a big store might bring on in a single day. 

In a 1994 study in the Journal of Industrial Microbiology a total of 3027 shared-use cosmetic product samples were collected from 171 retail establishments throughout the United States.  Their analysis showed significant contamination in 50% of the samples taken, with average densities of "2288, 1685 and 1088 CFU [per gram] for face and lip products, respectively."  The legal limit in the USA set by the FDA is 1000 Colony Forming Units per gram with a lower limit of 500 CFU per gram for eye area products.  Numbers alone are not enough to judge, though, and a product could be deemed contaminated beyond acceptable use if a dangerous pathogen may be present - in other words a microbe that could harm that particular area of the body.  The eyes are particularly sensitive areas, and eye infections are a very possible result of contaminated tester usage.  Pinkeye is not a cute color on anyone, and certainly not what you want to be sporting after a few mindless moments at the makeup counter.  The extensive testing quoted above shows the eye products were some of the most contaminated products.  

More than 60% of the microbes found on makeup testers were typical specimens of microflora from human skin, meaning the contamination was the direct result of being touched repeatedly.  The remainder were environmental microbes from the items sitting out for long periods of time.  The air can carry yeast, mold, and sneezes from the toddler who came along on the shopping trip.

Testers in beauty superstores are left open to the air. 60% of microbial populations on products came from human hands. The remainder was mold, fungus, and other airborne microbes from being open to the air all the time.
 
The sad fact is that most mass market locations have no substantial sanitation practices.  Employees are busy stocking shelves, taking inventory, or occasionally helping with product selection.  Sanitation takes a big back seat, and in many cases it would be nearly impossible to keep up.  Of the 5 people browsing the makeup section at the superstore at any given time the service staff can only help one while the other shoppers may be dipping and smearing their way through the tester stock the entire time. 

How much bacteria is on makeup testers in stores? How many germs are on makeup testers?

The contamination goes up the more people shop at that location, even if employees are scraping the tops of products and following good hygiene protocol such as at department stores where there are more staff devoted to dealing with the products.  They just can't fight the flood of customers coming through, and while they're tending to someone's makeover a thoughtless shopper is rubbing their fingers on the blush.  They may not see or have time to deal with it before the next person comes by and does the same.  In an article by Prevention magazine testing showed that on weekends, when stores have the heaviest traffic, up to 100% of the testers showed contamination.

Eyeshadows showed the highest average content of bacteria of any makeup testers in surveys, and are likely to pass on eye infections.

Your eyesight alone is not enough to be able to judge if an item is clean.  You see pretty colors that might look great on your next night out, but it takes a microscope to see microbial contamination.  An eyeshadow that looks like a crater may look visually unappetizing, but one that only looks a little smudged can be just as problematic from a bacterial standpoint.   

When we opened Blissoma Botanical Beauty last fall and began stocking makeup I was happier than ever to have our Staff Esthetician Lauren on board to advise us about proper care of our testers.  She's fantastic with skin consultations, but she's also a former makeup counter employee and had a backstage view of the good and bad sanitation practices used in other environments.  With her we devised appropriate protocols for disinfection of testers and brushes after use to protect our clients.  Single use swabs are available throughout our space, and every client is assisted with testing products.  Since we are generally serving one client at a time we can supervise the and often apply products for the client, meaning no sneaky fingers in our testers.  That keeps everyone safe.

We use organic alcohol liberally in cleansing brushes and surfaces as needed, and are in a position to discard a tester if we feel it has become questionable.  Products in jars are sampled with a Q-tip, not with fingers, and any items meant for testing are stored closed to prevent infiltration by environmental contaminants such as airborne spores and germs from coughs and sneezes.  These measures make a low traffic, high service environment like ours that is staffed with trained professionals the best and safest place to test makeup. 

Lauren's attention to quality care for her clients is a big reason she fits in at Blissoma.  She wrote a bit for us about her experiences with sanitation and provided some tips on what you can do to keep yourself safe the next time you go shopping.
Lauren's Makeup Counter Memories 

Believe it or not there people who seek out a meticulous level of understanding of sanitation in the beauty industry.  These people want to ascertain everything from how long fingernail length should be to which direction you should wipe a cotton swab after extracting a blemish. (It’s down, by the way.)  These people are called estheticians and they spend months, some even years, studying skincare techniques, makeup application and the sanitation protocols for both.  Estheticians are also handy to have around when looking for more information on what procedures should be in place for a spa or retail boutique that sells makeup and skincare. 

 I am currently a licensed esthetician but before I decided to pursue this career I got my start working at a makeup counter.  After working at the department store for about a year I decided that I wanted to learn more. I had gotten a glimpse of the makeup world through retail but I knew that if I wanted to take this seriously I would have to become certified. I set out for my esthetics license and passed my boards in 2011. It was in school I learned proper safety and sanitation procedures.  

 Unfortunately I’ve also experienced several working environments where protocols start to lag.  With the busy pace of business staff can feel rushed, learn new habits, and pay less attention to the sanitation procedures they originally learned. In some cases employees may never have learned them in the first place. 

 Cosmetics locations besides spas and salons may not hire people with an esthetics or cosmetology license to sell for them.That is not necessarily a bad thing if they still follow the same codes as licensed workers, but then as a consumer you are just leaving it up to good faith that they somehow have learned those codes from their place of employment.

At places like natural grocers that have makeup sections with testers and even at department store makeup counters there tends to be more foot traffic and more ways that germs and infections can spread through shared testers. Many of the retail workers I worked with at the department store cleaned the makeup brushes on a daily basis and tried as much as they could to discourage people sticking their fingers on and in products. Instead they would encouraged the use of disposable tools. On the other hand some makeup counters did not. The result is harmful to customers and to sales of products, as infections damages trust and causes customers to avoid trying the very products cosmetics companies are trying to demonstrate to them.  

 Accidents and mistakes do happen but I am confident in my role here at Blissoma. Because we are independent we can spend more time with customers when they come in because there is no sales goal we have to hit hanging over our heads. We also have time to properly clean tools after consults, which makes a big difference in preventing the spread of microbes between makeup products and people.  

Brushes at a mass market beauty location that are obviously unclean. Makeup brushes harbor bacteria when they are not sanitized properly.

The proper and frequent cleaning of brushes is a topic that all makeup artists should know well, and can be a problem area in some professional environments. I remember many times running out of brush cleaner at the department store and either going to other makeup counters and begging to use theirs or having to spray off a brush with water mixed with liquid soap and hope it got the job done. Makeup brush cleaner was treated like gold there. No one ever wanted to share it because it was rare to get more since each individual company was to supply their counter with their own. If the counter manager forgot to order more or the company decided that you get an allotted amount per a certain time period and then you run out before receiving more…well, it was up to us to figure it out. 

 I really like that at the Blissoma store I have complete access to our makeup brush cleansers and can refill them whenever I need to. We use organic alcohol to disinfect brushes as a quick cleaning, and then wash brushes on a regular schedule or after any particularly heavy use.  

 The type of makeup being sold can also have a big impact on whether or not testers may be contaminated. Mineral makeup composed simply of milled earth-mined pigments makes it harder for bacteria to flourish. There is no moisture or oil in a powder based mineral makeup, and that is the food on which microbes live. Pressed eyeshadows, blushes, and powders are much more likely to harbor pathogens because there is some type of binder always used to make the colors adhere into the pressed shape.  

 Now, in no way am I trying to put down anyone who works at a makeup counter at a department store. This was one particular place at one mall in the state of Missouri. It was my experience and it was part of the reason that led me to wanting to learn more and become certified in what I do. There are many passionate makeup artists and skincare sales people out there that don't have a license and are still able to use common sense when it comes to sanitary practices and get the job done. I remain glad for my training, though, as it allows me to be confident that I am taking the best possible care of my clients. The bottom line will never come before being able to take some time out to properly sanitize my space before starting on my next makeup or skincare consult and that is good for me and for you! 
 
Tips to remember when testing makeup:
  1. Make sure whoever you are working with washes their hands or uses a hand sanitizer before touching you. If they don’t, you can always say you have just gotten over a cold and would like them to sanitize their hands before starting so you can avoid catching another while your immune system is sensitive.
  2. Look for accessible disposable tools like mascara wands, lip wands, q-tips, sponges and cotton balls - anything that can be thrown away after one use. Make sure they do not double dip with said disposable tool.  You cannot stop the general public from doing this but the person that is there to assist you should not re-use something made to be thrown away after one use. 
  3. Make sure they spray their non disposable tools with some type of brush cleanser before using on you. Typically I would trust there is something in there that will properly sanitize a brush after each use but if you feel inclined it is not odd to ask what they use to do this. Brushes should never look gunky, though sometimes, especially if it is during a busy day, you may see powder residue on some brushes but that should be easily wiped away by a spray on brush cleanser before use. Most places do wash their brushes with a gentle soap and water but this is typically done at the closing of the day because they don't dry fast enough to use again and need to dry over night. 
  4. Products packaged in bottles with pump dispensers or in squeeze tubes will be the least likely to be contaminated.  They do not sit open to the air and fingers are kept out.  You can feel much more confident about testing products in this type of packaging because the packaging itself protects the product.  Be far more careful about products in jars, pressed powders and eyeshadows, and, of course, lipsticks and glosses.
  5. In general always go with your gut feeling. If something looks used up, crusty or not well taken care of you can always pass on trying it. Never feel like you are being too picky. Many women have a hard time with this and don't want to ruffle anyone's feathers especially in a light hearted situation where you may find the person you are working with quite pleasant and don't want to offend them. In such a situation I would pull from my story above about the women who would not let me put the eye makeup on her. As soon as she told me she had a bad experience with an eye infection due to being in the exact same situation I immediately understood and did not push any further.
  6. If able, shop at a smaller business that staffs trained and optimally licensed beauty professionals.  The more personal their approach and the more training they have the more likely they are to follow proper sanitation procedures.  You can also observe the employees working before having any makeup applied.  If you observe them sterilizing tools, pencils, and other products before reuse you may feel more confident.
  7. If you do not have a cosmetics retailer near you that you feel you can trust then you can elect not to use store testers in your shopping process at all.  Simply inquire about the return policy for that store and purchase unopened product.  Save your receipt and return it in a timely fashion if you are dissatisfied. 
Good sanitation procedures never go out of style, these are some tips you can always use. If you feel inclined to question just do so. If there is nothing to hide people will be happy to explain what they use to make sure you are safe and feel comfortable. 


Note: All images for this post were taken at my local natural grocer and the beauty superstore in the shopping center nearby.  These are the real conditions of the makeup testers on display every day, and despite availability of employees in the aisles there was no routine maintenance or sanitation occurring in either location at the time of the visit despite shoppers actively interacting with testers.  


Thursday, December 3, 2015 in , , , , ,

"Play" beauty products for kids - a gift with hidden health problems.


Little girls love to play with makeup and nail polish, but there is a more serious side to this issue than your favorite lipstick getting smushed.  (Though yes, I agree, that is a minor tragedy)

 Littles love to do what mom does, and if mom is using color cosmetics they'll want to as well.  In order to prevent the toddler or tween tornado from twisting through your stash it may seem like a great idea to get them some stuff of their own.  They'll feel special, and the items even come marketed for the younger crowd so they know it's just for them.  Problem solved!  Your products are safe and the kiddos are happy.... but....

Unfortunately most people are buying their daughters, nieces, fabulous little boys and grandbabies very cheaply made products packed with hormone disrupting chemicals, synthetic colorants, petroleum compounds, and synthetic preservatives.  Even worse, the additional chemical load can affect kids even more than a fully grown adult.  Their systems are developing and changing quickly, and genes are being turned "on" and "off" by their environment and experiences.  Anything that can alter that is something to consider carefully.


Hormones especially are subtle compounds, and a little this way or that can cause a lot of change.  That is why hormone disrupting chemicals should have you acting like the bouncer at an exclusive nightclub keeping their skeezy selves out.  They'll ruin the party, if not right away then later as they try and pair up with all the pretty estrogen receptors.
Image credit: National Institute of Health and Environmental Sciences
Endocrine disruptors act as hormone mimics and blockers depending on the situation and the compound.  They can sit in the estrogen receptors and other hormone reaction sites and block hormones from chemically matching with where they need to be.  They can also turn hormonal functions on and off sometimes too.  This is big trouble for the littles.

The earlier in life that the human body is exposed to especially hormone disruptors like pthalates the greater the long term damage can be.  Eventual results with habitual exposure can include abnormal hormonal development, fertility problems, and eventually even cancers of the endocrine system.

 (Want more details?  Read this in-depth article from Stacy Malkan, author of Not Just A Pretty Face, who has done all the research for you)
 
A future of chronic disease and pervasive hormonal dysfunction is not the kind of gift you want to bestow on the next generation.

Instead we highly recommend that you skip the toxin-laden "play" makeup and head straight for cleaner, endocrine disruption-free, natural options.  Get them products to play with, but give them something good quality.  That way when their face is smeared with it, or they are doing their nails for the third time that day you can simply say, "that looks great!" without worries about everything that might be leaching into their system

Nail polish is one of those products that little girls adore, and yet is the most insidiously harmful for health, as it has for generations been made up of solvents that otherwise would come with a litany of warnings.  Just as a sample let's review how Toluene, a solvent in conventional nail polish, would generally be labeled.

Toluene safety label text: "Highly flammable liquid and vapor. Causes skin irritation. May be fatal if swallowed and enters airways. May cause drowsiness or dizziness. May cause genetic defects. Suspects of damaging the unborn child by inhalation. May cause damage to the central nervous system by inhalation."
 
My daughter has far more time to paint her nails than I do.  That means a lot more chemical exposure.

For your little ladies (or any polish lovers) we are delighted to share an upgrade that will let the kids feel pretty and you feel like they are protected.

AILA Cosmetics
a Physician-Formulated collection of nail colors, base and top coats, and natural, fume-free soy based remover.  They sell online and through stores like Blissoma Botanical Beauty.

 AILA offers a lovely range of more than 25 colors in shades from reserved to rowdy that will make all ages happy.

Even their polish remover is nontoxic and healthy for nails.  It is completely odorless and made with soybean esters that gently remove polish from the nail and leave it nicely moisturized.




The big baddies in many widely sold nail polishes are:
 
- Toluene (industrial solvent and nervous system toxin)

- Dibutyl Pthalate (plasticizer and hormone disruptor)

- Formaldehyde (carcinogen)

- Formaldehyde Resin (allergen)

- Camphor (poisonous and causes yellow staining of the nail)

AILA is also free of:
- TPHP, another endocrine disrupting compound science has just been identified that is in even many 5-free polishes.  The lack of TPHP makes AILA unique in the nontoxic polish world.

How do all the junky chemicals get from the bottle into our bodies anyway? 
Your fingernails are not impervious surfaces.  You are not Lady Deathstrike and they are not made of adamantium, though I'm sure that we all often pretend like they are when attempting to perform tasks such as trying to use a fingernail as a screwdriver because despite having purchased an entire set none are anywhere to be found at times of need. (or is that just me?)  Fingernails are porous and can absorb chemicals that are put on them.  You also inhale the vapors during application - that characteristic smell is the aroma of nervous system damage.  OSHA even has a special mention on the health hazards that nail techs experience as part of their jobs being exposed to glues, polishes, removers and more. "Workers exposed to chemicals found in glues, polishes, removers, emollients and other salon products may experience negative health effects such as asthma and other respiratory illnesses, skin disorders (e.g. allergic contact dermatitis), liver disease, reproductive loss, and cancer."

Uh, yeah.  So tell me again why we are letting our kids fool around with cancerous solvents?  I'm thinking "because it's pretty and that color is in season" is just not enough.  

Some polishes available at larger chain stores like Essie and even Sally Hansen have gone "3 Free" which means they are free of Toluene, Dibutyl Pthalate, and Formaldehyde.  That's better than nothing, but we were super excited to find a line like AILA that was brought to life specifically to bring us the fun of polish without the risks of the additional chemicals.  As well, when big lines eliminate chemicals that are getting bad press sometimes they do so without adequate research and care, which makes the attention that Dr. Cary, the AILA founder, has given her work extra special.

Note: It is not news to me as a formulator and chemistry-lover that there can be problems with some "replacement chemicals" that are quickly substituted into conventional beauty products without adequate research.  Firstly industry wants a fast replacement, and if there is no research there can be no direct harm proven, so they stick something in that isn't the old stuff.  Zippity-doo-da, it's new and improved!  The new compound may be a mimic of the old one and just go by another name, or it may be a totally new can of worms. 
This has been an issue as many mainstream brands have tried to go "paraben free".  They stick in a new ingredient like methylisothiazolinone which isn't a paraben, but is a serious skin irritant.  People then have rashes popping up and don't know why, but it's because the choice of preservative wasn't made with health in mind, but rather mass production

If you're buying a beauty gift for a little one this holiday season or anytime we want to ask you to please buy clean, natural, nontoxic beauty products.  Look for declarations like "5-free" on nail polishes for the cleaner options, or even better look for brands that declare TPHP-free (there aren't many yet besides AILA).  For makeup please look for plant-based recipes and no FD&C colorants.  A line that specifically declares their colors are solely mineral based is best.


And skip all the synthetically perfumed lotions, shower gels, and spritzy stuff (whether cheap or designer).  Synthetic fragrances are like taking a bath in Pthalates, one of the worst types of endocrine disruptors.  While nail polish companies have been working to remove it the fragrance industry hasn't budged much.  Pthalates allow them to make fragrances seem stronger and last longer, and it seriously screws with their product structure to eliminate it.  Pthalates do absorb through skin and should be avoided as much as humanly possible.  Drop the freesia body spray like it's hot.


Yes, cleaner products sometimes cost a little bit more and you will almost assuredly not find them at the mall, but the peace of mind they buy is priceless.  When the wrapping paper is off, the bottles are empty, and your children are grown you'll know that they didn't get left with nagging health problems as a result of prettying up.  Health and wellness is the best gift of all.


Sunday, November 29, 2015 in , , , , , , , , ,

Great leaps and Gratitude - Blissoma Botanical Beauty is open


For 5 months my life has been a whirlwind of soapy water, paint, wood dust, stain, polyurethane, glue, nails, screws and everything construction-related as I renovated the space that now holds the Blissoma Botanical Beauty Boutique.  I took possession on July 1 and quite literally right away I dove in headfirst to the work that needed doing.  I barely came up for air.  I've worked from home for years, and the immersion at the new location was complete.  I basically came home only to eat dinner, shower, and sleep most days.  My family was informed that I was essentially unavailable, given apologies, and asked to be patient for a bit with the greater good in mind.

This week the store finally opened after construction delays galore and slogging through all manner of unexpected problems including a basement full of smoke (turns out decades-old electrical circuits don't love being messed with), and staff having personal emergencies that took us down by one member.  Nothing about the second half of 2015 has been easy.  Having completed our first week open for business I feel more like I can reflect properly and meditate on the gratitude I feel. 

 
In 10 years in business I've watched dozens of small businesses (especially retail) start up and then really struggle and often fail for a wide variety of reasons. I have even seen it happen to friends, and it has been a cautionary tale for me. The cost of renting and running any kind of space capable of retail is high and so is all the pressure that puts on the business. It's a very real "sink or swim" test and you have to be ready for that level of intensity. Some people get into retail without really knowing what it will be like. I did not. 

I got in full well knowing the commitment of time, energy and money it would require after seeing the process many times over with friends and acquaintances. All those factors were reasons that I stayed incubated in my residential space for as long as practically possible. It was only when we were literally bursting at the seams and could not even store the supplies we needed to process the orders we were getting that I was ready to make this leap for our production and sales needs.


Even with an existing sales base, reasonably reliable cash flow (for our size) and a talented staff the growth step we've taken is still a major risk. Everything I have done since around 6/1/15 (when the lease was signed) and through at least that time in 2016 is important. I have to be on my game at every moment, operate efficiently, and use my time and energy wisely. There is no room for serious errors. I can't afford to take my eyes and intention off my vision.




Even with the fact that I know for sure that we are offering products and services that people truly need one still has moments of dire doubt. It did my soul so much good to see so many friendly faces walk through our doors this week. Some were my dearest friends who have helped support me and talk me through moments of crisis, big and small. Some were people that I've never seen in person but have followed us online, and some were totally new clients that discovered us for the first time. All of these gave me so much hope and truly refilled my emotional tank, and their consciously spent financial resources will contribute towards our practical survival. Both of these things were necessary right now, and I feel extremely grateful and lucky for both.


 
Despite the fact that sales is a totally learned skill for me I have sold products in many environments. I spent years doing demos in natural foods stores, which in general was just painful for me and also not the greatest energetic interaction with clients (though that had nothing to do with what I put into it!). Even if you have something great to offer people you still have to offer it in the right way and at the right time. The recipient has to be ready or defenses go up and they will likely reject it.


Seeing products sell in another dear friend's natural beauty store several years ago was one of the key things that helped convince me that there was a better way to sell my type of product - better for me and for the client. It is so much more effective to give people the space they need to desire an interaction, and to willingly enter into it. Prioritizing service and education helps people choose for themselves rather than having something shoved at them. It was a beautiful thing seeing so many people thoroughly embrace clean self-care and health sustaining products this week through our gentle and respectful sales process.

 
People left our store feeling better about their appearance, more like the version of themselves they are delighted to present to the world, and like they knew what to do with what they purchased to positively impact their daily lives. I am truly honored to be instrumental in helping create that feeling for our clients. As much as I'm happy about seeing my business grow and flourish, this impact on people is the thing about which I feel best.

 
Many small businesses would not have had the blessing of such a solid first week of sales. I know this is partly good planning on my part, but it is also partly good fortune and the goodwill of our community. It gives us the chance to keep going and to do much more.

 
I am thankful to so many people for putting up with me through what has arguably been one of the most important and stressful 6 months of my life. It has not been an easy ride, and I wouldn't have made it through without each of the people that spent time and energy helping make it happen. I did a lot, but I'm more aware than ever of how much I need everyone around me to be the best version of me that I can be. To my family, my friends, and my clients I continue to owe my absolute best. I will continue to give it.
Blissoma Botanical Beauty is located at 2730 LaSalle Street, St. Louis, MO 63104 in historic Flower Row.  We are open 9 AM to 5 PM Monday through Friday and 10 AM to 6 PM Saturday currently.

Our skincare pros and makeup artists are available for consultations, color matching, and assistance creating your unique look with nontoxic, healthy beauty products every day.  Please come visit us! 


Thursday, August 7, 2014 in , , , , , ,

3 healthy summer skincare tips from Blissoma's staff esthetician


Blissoma now has full time staff esthetician.  Her name is Lauren and we're delighted to have her on our team.  Lauren has worked with us in a part-time capacity since early 2013 and supported the brand at demos, sales events, and helping with blogger outreach over the last 18 months before beginning full time status.


Lauren will be responsible for helping to grow Blissoma's online presence through social media including instagram, blog and vlog content, interacting with beauty bloggers, producing skincare alongside Frank, and answering clients’questions about the Blissoma line to help them solve their beauty challenges.


A 2011 graduate of the Skin Institute, Lauren is a certified, licensed esthetician. She received a Bachelor of Science degree from Stephens College in May 2009. She is certified with Dermalogica, SkinCeuticals and Jane Iredale. She also completed a five-week mentorship program with 30-year skincare veteran, Margot Cottier.

Lauren has been on her own journey through natural health and skincare through diet modifications due to allergies.  She has seen improvements in her skin with reductions in dairy consumption and increased clean plant content.

For summer Lauren wanted to offer some timely tips for maintaining your skin health despite heat and sun.

Tip #1
"Take advantage of the plethora of fruits and vegetables in season during the summer months and eat as much fresh food as possible.  Cucumbers are one of my favorite foods.  They are filled with water for hydration and are cooling to the body.  Bonus - Cut off a couple of slices and place over your eyes while relaxing with a detoxifying clay masque.

I suggest stopping by the farmer's market to see what is in season.  Get as much of your produce from local, organic farmers as possible to ensure it is pesticide free and fresh from the field."



Tip #2
"Be sure to stay hydrated with plenty of water to keep skin hydrated as well.  My favorite summer concoction is adding mint, lemons and fruit such as berries or peaches (my favorites!) to a pitcher of water to enjoy later.  Let it sit overnight or for a few hours and enjoy the refreshing, flavorful beverage.

You can also freeze mint leaves, berries and other fruit into ice cubes to use in herbal teas and water.  They look beautiful and the added color makes your favorite healthy beverage that much more enticing.  This is a great way to make your beverages feel exciting to drink without adding sugar content, which is inflammatory for skin."

Tip #3
"One of my favorite summer skincare products are toners.  I love misting my face and decollete morning and night.  I switch between toners in our line and right now I'm enjoying the Intense Hydration Tonique.  I've also used it to set my makeup before heading out in the evenings when I need my makeup to last through the night."

We hope you'll enjoy getting to know Lauren. She has a wonderful way with client service and has so far been handling our skincare consultation requests with care and skill.  Email her at esthetician@blissoma.com with your questions about your skin and the products that will be right for you.


Thursday, June 5, 2014 in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

How dandelions benefit your health and skin for natural beauty

How to use Dandelions for health and beauty - harvest dandelion leaf and root for health

With spring invariably comes a flush of yellow in fields everywhere.  Despite poison and pulling and the tireless efforts of homeowners everywhere dandelions doggedly stick their little stalks and leaves up out of the ground.  They're persistent and able to survive in soils in which garden plants couldn't even make room for a root.  Along roadways, in vacant lots, and yes, in your grass, they thrive.  We see commercials for killing sprays and men standing proudly surveying their dandelion-free lawn.  Since homeownership became common in the 1950s the quality of you as a human being might likely be judged by how weed free you could get your lawn.

 Yet the dandelions still thrive.  Today I'm here to proclaim loudly that instead of vilification this plant practically deserves its own holiday.  Yes, you heard me!  Dandelions are one of the most valuable plants in Chinese Medicine, appear in the Pharmacopeias of 4 European countries, and even pop up in the U.S. National Formulary.  These maligned little plants pack a lot of healing help into all their parts.  The roots, leaves, and blossoms of our dear Taraxacum officinale can all be used for food and natural beauty purposes.

 Dandelions are one of those abundant resources that we've simply become blind to over time.  They have a fleshy taproot that can penetrate even tough soils.  Many permaculture farmers and gardeners know that dandelions are not just good for people, they're good for the soil and other plants too.  Their taproot goes deep into the earth to transfer nutrients from layers below to the shallow rooted plants that surround them.  The taproot also punctures and aerates the soil, creating a way for water to infiltrate down even through hard soils.  At a permaculture presentation I attended given by Mark Shepard he jokingly stated that there isn't a dandelion within 100 yards of his house on his farm because his family has foraged them all.  It's free, healing food - doesn't get much better than that!  Not to mention they're green and growing much earlier in the spring than most gardeners have crops ready.  That's because they've been out there dormant just waiting for the warmth of spring so they can burst to life.  While you're still waiting for even your cool season crops to get a foothold you can be munching on dandelions.

Health benefits of dandelion leaf and root. Dandelions contain vitamins A, C, K, minerals, and flavanols

The nutrient concentration abilities of the dandelion make it one of the worlds best foods nutritionally.  That's why you might even see dandelion greens sold in your local organic market.  This always makes me chuckle a bit because this would be one of the easiest plants for people to grow and use and yet they are paying beaucoup bucks for it a premium stores.  If you live in a condo and have no soil to grow in you get a pass, but if you've got a yard then for heavens sakes stop applying herbicide and enjoy the health enhancing dandelions that will grow abundantly for you with absolutely no care and maintenance.  Ignore them and they'll be fine.  Water them and they'll flourish.

The prevalence of greens in the spring is something I've seen many raw and locavore food enthusiasts discuss.  Rhythmically it makes sense.  In the winter one generally is eating a lot of preserved, starchy, and heavy foods.  This would have especially been true in years past when we weren't shipping fresh foods in from South America in the winter.  This can make the body and metabolism sluggish over time.  Spring greens give the body a chance to detoxify, and dandelions are particularly adept at this particular function.  They have compounds proven to cleanse the liver, stimulate bile production, and pull heavy metals from the body.  They're very nutritionally dense as well, and an influx of vitamins is a huge boon to our bodies as we enter a very active, sunny season.

 Vitamins and nutrients in Dandelions:
  • Beta-carotene - Dandelions is the plant kingdom's richest sources of Beta-carotene which is then transformed into Vitamin A in your body.
  • Iron - A serving of dandelion greens contains just as much iron as spinach
  • Vitamin K - Dandelions have 535% of your Rda of this fat soluble vitamin.  It contributes to good blood flow and healthy blood vessels and may help to reduce bruising.  
  • Vitamin C - Antioxidant and anti-aging
  • Minerals - Dandelions contain potassium, calcium, magnesium, and phosphorous.  The root is a particularly potent spot for mineral concentration.
  • Vitamin B6, Thiamin, Riboflavin
  • Protein - Dandelions are a surprisingly good source of protein, comparable
  • Tof-CFr - A glucose polymer found to act against cancer cells in mice.
  • Pectin - This forms ionic complexes with metal ions, making it a prime compound of use in detoxifying the body of heavy metals.
  • Coumestrol - An estrogen mimic that can help stimulate milk flow and balance hormones.
  • Apigenin and Luteolin - These are flavonoid glycosides that have diuretic, anti-spasmodic, anti-oxidant, and liver protectant properties.
  • Taraxasterol - This may contribute to liver and gall bladder health.

For more details on many of these and further list see this fantastic article on the Leaf Lady.
Find percentages of daily values in this nutritional breakdown of dandelion greens.

To harvest dandelion from a wild place or your yard make sure you know the area hasn't been sprayed.  If you're harvesting for leaves young plants will be the most tender and least bitter.  If you want the root then look for mature plants early in the spring.  They've stored nutrients in their root and that makes it a potent time to harvest.  The soil is also loose from frost and will make your digging or pulling easier.  If you have packed soil you'll need a trowel to dig in and loosen it before you lift.  Pull from the base so it doesn't break off at the leaves.

 Once you've got your roots and leaves clean them up.  The roots should be chopped and dried in a dehydrator or on a pan or screen in a spot with good air circulation.  It may take 3 to 14 days for complete air drying.

If you want to make dandelion "coffee" which is roasted then you can dry and roast the root at the same time.  Place the well-chopped root on a pan in the oven at 250F.  Place the oven door ajar to let moisture escape if you have a lot of root on your pan.  A single layer is best and will roast most evenly.  Stir periodically to prevent burning and to keep everything roasted consistently.  The root will shrink considerably as it dries.  As it gets dry watch it most closely toward the end as it can burn fast once there is no moisture left in it.  The root will be a nice medium brown color when finished.

How to prepare dandelion leaf and root to use for dandelion smoothies, dandelion tea, and dandelion coffee

To use dandelion greens you can incorporate them into salads and smoothies.  The vitamin content will of course be highest if you eat them raw.  The vein of the leaf is where a lot of the bitter flavor is so if that bothers you it is possible to strip the delicate leaf part off the vein, but of course that is a lot of work.  If you chop them very fine and mix them thoroughly with your chosen dressing prior to adding them to the salad this will help mask bitterness.  To put them in smoothies just substitute them for any existing greens in the recipes you have on hand and blend away!

 Of course I'm a big fan of eating for beauty, and all the nutrition in dandelions is going to definitely take great care of your skin.  Detoxing your body and aiding your digestion will also be of huge help for your appearance.  The better you digest the more nutrients your body can use from the foods you eat.  

We all want that inner glow which unfortunately becomes impossible if your digestive system isn't functioning well or is building up chemical metabolites.  Unwanted chemical burden builds up in our bodies from exposure to environmental pollutants, pesticides, plasticizers, synthetic personal care, paint and coatings, and preservatives and additives in foods in addition to other sources like prescription medications.  The liver does a big job of metabolizing foreign substances and enzymatically transforming them into compounds that are less harmful or can be excreted.  Over time the byproducts of this process can build up in the body due to the liver being overworked and sluggish, or due to inefficient elimination.  Even your body's own hormones are filtered through the liver.  Therefore if your skin is having a hormonal acne freakout your liver might be someplace to spend some TLC.

 All this makes dandelions even more exciting because they support the healthy function of your digestive organs *and* detox your system.  Hello glow!

 But it doesn't stop there.  You can put them on your skin as well for healing benefit.  An infusion of dandelion root yields a plethora of hydration balancing potassium and trace minerals.  Minerals are one of the most overlooked components of good skin hydration and function.  Most lines can talk your ear off about their vitamins and antioxidants but completely leave out minerals.  Blissoma has made sure to use mineral rich herbs and seaweeds in many of our products. They help regulate the water in the skin so you don't get puffy but still have comfortable hydration in all the right places.  Dandelion is a wonderful source of potassium which is one of the most helpful electrolytes for maintaining good skin hydration and barrier function.

Benefits of dandelions for your skin. Minerals in dandelion root hydrate skin and help it function well.

The inclusion of minerals is one reason our recipes like Peace Evening Facial Creme and Amend Antioxidant Lotion can be light and absorbent and yet so effective at helping the skin maintain good moisture levels.  It's not just about the oils.  This is also why we believe in products that contain water as well as oil. (Though we do love our oil serums!)  Some folks may complain that products containing water are a waste of your dollars.  The fact remains that minerals and many phytonutrients like the anti-inflammatory compounds and flavonoids in herbs like dandelions cannot be carried by oils.  Minerals especially are water soluble and must be delivered through good old H20.  So if you're using products with good quality, water-based herb extracts like our Tone Intense Hydration Tonique (which also includes dandelion and other soothing herbs) you're still getting all kinds of beneficial compounds - it's so much more than just water.

Traditional Medicinals Dandelion leaf and root tea. Get the health benefits of dandelions from drinking a daily cup of dandelion tea.

If you can't gather wild dandelions then one great way to get them into your system is by drinking dandelion teas.  Traditional Medicinals makes several good dandelion teas that are delicious to sip and will help support your digestive health, hormonal balance, and beauty of your skin.  I highly recommend the raw, unroasted Dandelion Leaf and Root Tea for daily consumption.  It's mild and almost sweet and super easy to brew - just pop the tea bag in hot water, wait 10 to 15 minutes and drink your dandelions down.  

The organic Everyday Detox Dandelion Tea features dandelion leaf and root as well as fennel, peppermint, and licorice.  I personally love that anise-like flavor of the fennel and this blend is nicely done.  One benefit to supporting a product like these is that they are Certified Organic, which means no doubts about toxins if you don't have a field near you that you're sure isn't polluted with pesticides or other problems. 

To celebrate the fabulous qualities of dandelions I also made a video on how to gather and use them.  They're everywhere in the field that hosts Blissoma's community garden project and I'll never have to worry about having enough of my own - it's guaranteed abundance.


  
Smile when you see that little yellow "lion" flower emerging defiantly from your lawn.  Now you know all the good things it can do for you.

Dandelion root skincare by Blissoma to hydrate and balance skin. Calming moisturizers for face and body. Vegan natural skincare.
Note - Traditional Medicinals kindly provided me samples of their teas to evaluate.  I was not paid for my mention of them and all opinions are solely my own in the interest of helping people easily incorporate more healing plants into their routines.



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